The general rule is that Omegas have all the relevant markings on the inner side of the case back. If you see something like that, skip that one. I’ve seen rotors from the Tissot transplanted in an Omega. Well, technically they’re the same thing. Notably, that’s the case with the Omega 1480 and the Tissot 2471. However, if one part has an almost yellow gold color, and the other one has a deep, dark copper tone, you can be sure they didn’t leave the factory together.Īnother example of frankenising is using parts from Tissot counterparts in movements, which the two brands shared. Of course, some parts will change color due to the different solutions they were cleaned in during a service. You can often spot them by an inconsistent tone of the plating throughout the various components. It’s also not uncommon to see movements built from spare parts. It may be that the issue has been repaired. The inner side of the case back will have a characteristic circular trace on it. The edge on the rotor will have a noticeable loss of plating. When it wears out, the rotor will start rubbing against the bridge on which it sits (upper bridge for automatic device), and against the case back. The one thing that’s known to go wrong with these movements is the axle of the rotor. You need to be extremely careful with signs of issues with the rotor. Still, they have a few problems worth noting. Omega’s rotor automatics of the 5XX family (and everything that followed) are great. 321, but it has a silver-colored finish on the plates, cocks, and bridges, and it doesn’t have the 321 markings, it’s simply not a 321. So, if you’re checking out an Omega chronograph from the 1950s, which is supposed to have a cal. The 321 is always marked as such and always has copper-colored plating. There are, however, differences between the CH27 C12 and the 321. Until the 1990s, the only supplier of chronograph movements for Omega was Lemania. #Omega pocket watch serial number 615 800 silver series#If you see a 60X series movement in a case with a reference that tells you it’s a model which is supposed to be equipped with a 5XX-series automatic, that’s wrong. Theoretically, it fits in a case intended for a 5XX. However, a few Seamaster De Ville models had it as well. They were mostly used in the Geneve collection. Of course, the barrel is different as well. This is nothing more than a 5XX base without the automatic winding assembly. A non-RG 30mm movement + a “chronometre” dial = frankenwatch. I’ve encountered cases where a dial signed “Chronometre Omega” was fitted to a non-RG 30mm movement. You can easily recognize the RG by its distinctive regulator. The 30T2 had a few chronometer versions, all of a higher grade than the non-chronometer versions. 265 with a flat hairspring, while it’s supposed to have a Breguet overcoil, you can be sure that it’s a 269 movement with the wrong balance. It’s always good to check that out when looking at a movement.įor example, when you see a cal. #Omega pocket watch serial number 615 800 silver archive#The Ranfft movement archive entries for movements of various Omega families list differences between particular movements of a calibre family. Note the absence of “AM” in the markings under the balance. The serial number dates it to 1946 or thereabouts. #Omega pocket watch serial number 615 800 silver Pc#For example, the 30T2 PC and 30T2 PC AM are both signed 30T2 PC, because the only difference is an anti-magnetic balance in the AM version.Ĭalibre 30T2 PC AM from a ref. #Omega pocket watch serial number 615 800 silver full#Note that various versions of the calibre 30T2 sometimes have a signature of the base calibre, while that’s not necessarily the full calibre number. The 30T2 and its derivatives are a legend in their own right. Speedies have a separate list, compiled by Roman Hartmann, and you can check it here. Note that this list doesn’t apply to Speedmasters. #Omega pocket watch serial number 615 800 silver serial numbers#You can find a list of serial numbers for Omega at Chronomaddox, a useful Omega resource created by the late Chuck Maddox. Later on, the serial was always on one of the bridges. In other words, you have to disassemble the watch to access it. In pocket watches from the early 1900s, you can find it on the dial side of the baseplate. Serial numbersĮvery Omega movement has a serial number. From the late 1940s on, the number was located on one of the bridges, often the same one as the serial number. Omega movements, from the 1930s and 1940s, usually have the calibre number under the balance. If you ask the seller for pictures of the movement, and you get a response like “I can’t” or “I don’t have the tools” or just a plain “no,” it’s best to skip that one. Please don’t buy a vintage watch, let alone an Omega, without having a look at the movement. A collection-specific number on an unsigned watch.
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